Starlink on Pure DC Power

 

Starlink on Pure DC Power


Welcome to this next edition of Off Grid CTO featuring my projects and experiences working as the Chief Technology Officer of ModelOp, a great software company designing enterprise management of AI and traditional models.  It’s been a little whiles, and I will be posting more soon.  This edition actually comes to you from in flight on an airplane headed to a customer visit, so things are changing for sure!

In this episode I will be exploring how I have adapted a Starlink terminal to work on DC power, without their provided router, and without cutting up the expensive and hard to get cable they provide you.

I am providing this blog not as instructions, but just to let you know what I did.  This could cause your Starlink to blow up, malfunction, and probably void your warranty, so please proceed at your own risk.  If you are not good at wiring things and creating connections for ethernet and power, this is probably not the project for you.  Again, I suggest you don’t do this…

 

 

 

The ethernet adapter with the connector cut off showing the two sets of wires inside.  You want to use the thicker wires, as the thin ones go to the ethernet port on the adapter.

 

The Ethernet Adapter

I finally after waiting for over a year with a deposit down, received my Starlink unit.  I am temporarily back in my Utah home taking care of spring chores, but will be bringing the Starlink up to my off grid cabin this coming weekend and giving it a real trial in the remote mountains.  The issue is, when you get this ‘gen 2’ unit, it requires a giant and ugly router to both power the unit and provide wifi connections.

This router is not very capable and has very limited configurability and is not up to my requirements for running a network.  Further, it requires 110v connection.  This does not fit into my DC first power in my cabin, as every conversion causes a loss.  So I was determined to convert to running this unit without AC power.  I’ve read several people who have cut the cable and put ethernet on the end of it to allow for this, but the cable is proprietary, hard to come by, and quite expensive.  They sell an ethernet adapter that hangs off of their router to allow to ‘bypass’ it, but you still have the AC connection.  This was not going to work for me, plus space in my cabin is at a premium.

So I got all the equipment, including the ethernet adapter, and hitched it all up for a try out and sure enough it worked, but was quite large and clunky with all of this stuff required…  Then it hit me.  The ethernet adapter itself provided me with both ends of that proprietary connection, and was less than half of what a cable costs…. So I decided to open it up and see if I could get the connectors out.

What I discovered when looking at the circuit is it is actually a pass through of the Starlink connection, plus a second set of skinny wires that export an ethernet connection from the router out to the ethernet port.  So what I had in my hands was a cheaper way to cut the cord and create the required connections without changing the expensive cable, and make it so I could have a plug in way of creating a DC connection and remove the router entirely.

 

 

 

Cross the cables

So starlink actually utilizes standard ethernet connections and 48v POE, at about 100w maximum.  But for some reason, they decided to swap the wires and not utilize a standard wiring scheme.  So in order to utilize a standard POE injector, you must swap the blue and green pairs temporarily to get the power on them, then swap them back to get the data going into the right place.  this is the reason for having to wire your own connectors.  The diagram to the right explains this, which I borrowed from a previous reddit post on the process.

So what I did was to do the first of these swaps right on the Starlink ethernet adapter.  I simply cut the proprietary connector off, then crimped on an ethernet connection following the ‘b’ standard but swapping the wires as described.  I now had a nice plug from the female side of the Starlink dish, which allows me to use the existing long cable to plug in, and a male side ethernet plug that can go into the POE injector and receive power from a DC power supply.  I was now half way there!

I also purchased the recommended POE injector listed on the right.  It puts power on all 4 pairs which is crucial to making this work.  One that only charges the normal pairs is not going to necessarily work, so this one seemed to fit the bill and was readily available.  I also added a standard 200w 12v->48v DC buck converter.  There are tons of these out there available, and almost any of them will fit the bill.  It has to be at least 100w though so if the heater on the Starlink kicks on, it will not overload it.  This connects easily to the POE injector and will supply the power for the Starlink dish.

 

The swapped wired ready to crimp onto the connector.  Notice the swap of the pairs.  This is very important!

 

 

 

I then built a short cable that performs the exact same swap on the male end, and a standard 586B connection on the female end.

 

A Short Patch Cable

Then I needed a short cable that goes from the POE injector to the PC or Router that we will directly connect to the Starlink dish.  This I made as male to female cable that swaps the same pairs on the male end to basically put the data back onto the correct lines for a normal connection.  This is vital to making it all work.

By doing a simple cable like this it allows me to connect any standard patch cable to this, and be served up a single IP address by the dish itself, without involving their router at all.

 

 

 

Check and Double Check

After you have it all wired up, I would personally suggest checking, double checking, and then not actually going through with this modification.  I am sure this voids your warranty, and you can certainly utilize the included router and cables with an inverter to power your dishy, but for me I just couldn’t let it sit that way and want the highest efficiency both space and power wise.  So for me I was OK with the risk.  Proceed at your own caution.

 

Make sure the pairs show swapped as shown on the tester

 

 

 

Connected all together…. Ethernet adpater from Starlink goes to the POE side of the injector, patch cable goes to the data side, and to PC or router from there.

 

Connecting All of the Pieces

So once you have all of these pieces built, then the connection is pretty straight forward.  Simple plug the Starlink ethernet adapter you modified into the POE injector.  Then plug your patch cable into the other side of the POE injector (non POE side), and then use a normal ethernet patch cable to go either to a PC or router.  Then plug dishy into the ethernet adapter.  Finally plug your buck converter into a DC power supply.  You are now going to have to wait for a few.  It takes dishy a bit to come all the way up to respond.  So don’t panic, but be aware of a few things.

First, if you are plugging dishy into a router, you are going to need to make a static route to 192.168.100.1 for your wan port.  There is a landing page there that gives you access to all of the standard web interface stuff to interact with dishy.  That will also allow the ios or android app to work as well.

That said, I suggest you first test with a direct connection to a PC, and in that case you don’t need to do a thing.  You will have that route already defined.

 

 

 

Success!

Well with great nervousness about blowing up my new dishy, I went ahead and applied power.  I had this directly connected to my pc, and sure enough I saw an ethernet link and traffic.  Clearly, this was going to work.

After a bit of time, I was issued an IP address, and going to 192.168.100.1 lead to the dishy page.  This clearly works.  There is no router involved here, and is a direct connection.

I wanted to set this up before I went remote again, so I am roaming, but even then I am seeing just fine speeds.  So success and am looking forward to installing this at the off grid cabin this Friday!

Success!  Online and with roaming great speeds!

 

 

 

Direct DC power shows between 19w and 48w with no heater

 

And the Results are In!

And so as you can see I sit around 19W to 48W of power usage of direct DC.  Typically, it sits around 35W of usage it seems.  In the long run it will be interesting to see what it takes for power over time, but for right now it is in line with what Viasat utilizes.

So now I am ready to go with a pure DC powered Starlink unit and am excited to see the difference it makes at my cabin.  Unlimited data and reduced latency is going to be a game changer.  The next blog will be on the other half of the config to make it work on my network, and the results I actually see.

So join me next time to see what Starlink really means to an off grid CTO!

 

 

26 Comments

  1. Steve

    Well done!

  2. Allan

    Awesome, thankyou for the excellent detail. I was looking to do this in my motorhome, saving 12 volt power is what it’s all about.

  3. sv:R-aTherapy2

    This is exactly what my sailboat needs. Thank you for sharing all the work and details put into this article. I’m sure this will help many individuals! Parts are ordered, now I wait. Couldn’t get that specific peo but heard it’s the same pinning

    • Jim Olsen

      As long as it puts power on four and not two you should be good. That POE is still showing available on Amazon btw, if the one you got doesn’t work out. Have fun with it. Working great for me still.

  4. James

    Thanks for this! I’m not seeing a name or link for the POE injector “listed on the right”. Can you post here in comments please? Thanks

    • Jim Olsen

      The model number is in the diagram, but for quick reference it is Tycon Systems POE-INJ-1000-WT High PoE 4 Pair Injector. It is available many places, but I got mine on Amazon for the easy return process. I have heard of some people getting a bad one so check it out using straight through wires before you begin your work using a tester of any kind. Any 4 pair injector should work that accepts higher wattage. Just don’t get the cheaper 2 pair ones or this won’t work.

  5. Joe N

    Can I ask what did you use for your 12v-48v DC converter?

  6. Nick Maietta

    Excellent write-up.

    I am almost certainly moving this direction too. I successfully performed a “router delete”, not the same as a bypass. Currently using an AC powered injector. The next logical step for a portable solution is obviously DC.

    Your write-up gives me a bit more confidence.

  7. Leon Tunnie

    Mate,
    Love your write up and I’m going to be doing the same here in Australia when I finally get mine. Bit of a out there thought but why not utilise the thinner cables out of the ethernet adaptor instead of having to create a short patch cable? I don’t my unit yet and obviously don’t have a hands on with it but just a thought.

    • Jim Olsen

      Not quite sure I am following on using the second set of cables…. I guess I could have kind of hung both ends off of the same cable and done it that way if that is where you are going with it. I really just wanted something simple inline so I didn’t have to cut the long cable, and also make it easy to switch back to the starlink router if support required it. So I honestly didn’t really think through making it ultra clean.

      If you try that out and have some success with it, let me know. Thinking of getting a second one to use for RV mode as I really don’t want to move the one at the cabin, and like the idea of having a backup I can activate if needed.

  8. Benoit

    Why not just provide power through the cut cable and connect the router POE to the adapter ethernet connector, so no need for a POE injector, just DC power to the correct pins on the cut cable of the ethernet adapter? Thanks for the write-up.

    • Benoit

      you would loop back the data to the adapter to output on the existing ethernet port

    • Jim Olsen

      There is additional circuitry in the POE injector. I believe there is more to POE than just simply adding the DC power in order to not interfere with the data signal, but am not an expert on that. So I just went with the POE injector. There are chips inline and involved there, so something else is going on besides just adding DC power.

  9. pIp

    Jim Olsen, wow that name takes me back to watching George Reeves and Jack Larson as Superman and reporter Jimmy Olsen in the 60s.
    You wrote that a POE injector was listed on the right but no Jim, it isn’t. The page is set out in one long column down the lhs. At least it is for me on Mozilla. There is no link to the POE injector in any case and the image you refer to may or may not have a model number; it’s too low res to read anything on it.
    If you could bob up with a couple of alternative POE injectors would be great because here in Oz, I can’t get the Tycon injector.

    • Jim Olsen

      Yeah, that is the model number of the ethernet poe injector. See my reply earlier that has the model number in a reply comment as well. Here is the info “Tycon Systems POE-INJ-1000-WT High PoE 4 Pair Injector”. Going to Amazon right now shows 18 of these in stock. Otherwise find another item matching its specs. The main thing is that it is a 4 pair injector, and high power. I have no experience with any other brands to be able to recommend an alternative, but this is available on Amazon now.

  10. Thomas Pettus

    Thank you. Where did you get the male and female connector? There exact name would help me. Also, when you unraveled the dark gray cable, you had a lot of whites, but when you placed it in male connector, you only had 1 white, and you swapped green and blue. Did you wire the whites together>

    • Jim Olsen

      There were double the number of wires in there as normal for ethernet. The skinny ones come from the starlink router (not the dish) and provide the ethernet port. The thicker wires are the cables from the dish and are a straight passthrough. All wires of the thicker type are put into the rj-45 connector in the pattern described (swapping a couple for the POE, then unswapping them again to go into your ethernet device.

  11. ben

    This is great! Making the same conversion. Only question is what did you do with the grounded pairs coming out of the starlink adapter/bypass?

    • Jim Olsen

      I just cut off the skinny wires that exported the ethernet from the starlink router, as they are not needed. The full size wires are a straight passthrough of all of the connections so that is all that is needed

  12. Ryan

    Hey,

    I have the v1 round dishy.

    Is the swapping of wires the same?

  13. RTS

    Thank you, Jim! As an RVer who refuses to use an inverter, this write up is really interesting. I don’t want to have to wait for Starlink to offer a DC power option (if they ever do). Fortunately I have the tools and networking background to do this project. For a mobile Starlink setup, my next question would be what standalone DC-powered wireless-capable routers exist that provide a standard WAN Ethernet port, without all of the unneeded cellular circuitry? I haven’t found anything that fits the bill yet, so grateful for any suggestions.

    • RTS

      Answering my own question here, I think I found an appropriate mobile router that has a WAN port, the TP-Link AC750 Wireless Portable Nano Travel Router(TL-WR902AC).

      • RTS

        Just one other note to confirm that the TP-Link router reference above is configurable, so the forwarding required (which Jim mentioned in his follow-on post about integrating Starlink into his existing network) in order to use the Starlink app can be done in the router’s management interface. I have no affiliation with TP-Link and haven’t tried this yet, so remains to be seen if it will work.

    • Jim Olsen

      You have a few options here. If you want truly portable, this one is a good fast router based on Open-WRT: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B2J7WSDK/

      That should provide you a good true portable router that supports wifi-6 giving you high speed.

      That said, many of the non-portable models actually run on 12v already. Most of the time you can look at the specs and it will tell you. Then you simply cut the cable off of the wallwart it comes with, and plug directly into DC. I am doing this now in my cabin with a separate router and WAP that both run on 12v. I did get the above portable one to give me an option for the complete portable setup, as I am a truck camper and don’t have that much space. I have ordered an RV unit as a backup for my cabin, but also want to use it to work out camping on occasion. I plan to leave it mostly deactivated unless my current residential unit dies on me.

      • RTS

        Thanks for the router recommendation , Jim. Much appreciated.

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